Costa Rica: Jaco & Playa Hermosa

I've been in Jaco since Monday. My friend Tara is studying in a Spanish school here so I've been hanging out with her and her classmates in the evenings. It's been nice to see a familiar face as I've been homesick this week. I think it's all of this moving around. Packing and unpacking so often is starting to wear on me. I find myself daydreaming of all things domestic...kitchens, the same bed and strangely enough even a garden, which I've never had. I think it's just the routine lover in my trying to get back out. So I think after checking out a few more pacific coast towns, I'll settle in one place for a few weeks and maybe take some more Spanish classes.

Jaco is OK. I don't like it as much as Samara, where I spent time earlier this year. It's a bit more developed, a little bigger, more tourists...and not as beautiful or charming. However, I went to Playa Hermosa yesterday which is a beach 5 km South. It was so beautiful. I forgot my camera so no pictures. It is a black sand beach, so lovely. The waves there are big and apparently 'world class'. So I obviously didn't try surfing there, but just had lunch at a restaurant on the beach and read my book.

Tomorrow I am going to visit Manuel Antonio National Park for 2 days, so I hope to have some great pictures for my next posting. Ciao!

No Honduras For Now

I had planned to go to Honduras today. However, much of the country is under red or yellow alert because of tropical rains (possible hurrican coming), mud slides (blocking roads) and flooding. Apparently 17,000 people have been evacuated (news article). So, I'm going to have to skip Honduras for now. :(

There has been a lot of rain in Guatemala as well. Yesterday on the way back to Antigua from Lake Atitlan we had a lot of rain and a portion of the mountain had come down on the road. I'll try to load the pictures later. But because of all the rain and sketchy road situations, I've decided not to bus it to Costa Rica as I originally planned. Tomorrow morning I fly from Guatemala City to San Jose, Costa Rica. My Canadian friend Tara is studying Spanish in Jaco. So I'm planning to go straight to Jaco, settle in for a day or two and then head down to Manuel Antonio National Park. Tara is letting me keep the majority of my stuff in her room, so I'll only need to take my small backpack which will be a welcome retreat! Although I have lightened my load a bit, some intentionally, some by accident.

I'm bummed about missing Honduras. But I plan to use this time to tour Costa Rica before I fly to Buenos Aires on December 9th. When I was in CR earlier this year I stayed in a small beach town the whole time. So I plan to see the the rest of the country as I'm not sure if I'll be getting back there after South America next spring. Hasta luego.

Guatemala: Antigua & Lago de Atitlán

I've been pretty mellow since arriving in Antigua on Sunday. Antigua Guatemala (Old Guatemala) was the capital until 1773 when a series of earthquakes destroyed much of the town, and the capital was moved to what is now Guatemala City. Antigua is a well preserved colonial town with many church ruins. Many Euros have settled here for retirement. It is much more expensive than other places I've stayed in Guate. The first night I arrived I paid $40 for a hotel but found another one for the next 3 days at $20 per night. They have a lot of really beautiful hotels and bed and breakfasts at $100+ per night. Apparently President Clinton stayed in one while here for an Economic Conference.

I didn't do much in Antigua besides wonder around the city. I also hiked to the mirador (look out point) where you can see all of Antigua with Volcán de Agua towering in the background. I hiked to the mirador with a local who works at the hotel I stayed in the first night. Apparently they recommend that tourists do not go to the mirador alone because of armed robberies (per my Lonely Planet...albeit a few years old). However, there were tourist police at the top and the bottom (there are 4 types of police here, one being tourist police).

There are many great cafes and restaurants in Antigua. I found one beautiful restaurant that makes homemade chia lattes to die for. The thing I don't like about Antigua is that the buildings are right against the sidewalk. So it is hard to know where the beautiful places to go are because all you can see is the outside walls and the door. I'm very much a visual person and like to check things out before I go in to eat. So I had to do a bit more investigation walking in and out of places. The streets are are uneven cobblestone and lovely.

I did throw my budget out the window for a day and splurged at the spa. A massage, manicure, pedicure and reflexology treatment was $58; crazy.

Yesterday (Thursday) I took a shuttle bus to San Pedro La Laguna which is a small village on Lago de Atitlán. Oh...and yesterday there was an earthquake. I was still in Antigua and was upstairs in an internet cafe. I didn't feel it; but the people downstairs did. Apparently it was much stronger in San Pedro. People said it felt like you were on a bus and that bubbles rose out of the Lake.

This morning I took a 3 hour guided horse tour. The guide, Pedro, was very nice. You'll see by the number of photos of me on the horse, he was quite the photographer. As in Lanquin, the people in San Pedro speak Spanish as well as an Indigenous dialect. All the dialects I have heard (4 so far) are so beautiful to listen to.

The tour was lovely. We, Pedro and I, saw a beach, went through coffee farms, and went up to a mirador (of course...everywhere here there is a mirador-lookout point). Flowers were starting to bloom and it was so aromatic. Even through my stuffed up sinuses I could smell all the flowers and plants. Pedro told me (in Spanish of course) that poor countries smell like nature and that more developed countries with more electricity and cars smell like pollution; I agree. The picture here to the left turned out pretty good. It was Pedro's idea for me to put my hand up by my head like I'm scouting the lake or something. I was giggling inside, but I think the photo is brilliant (there were a bunch of Brits & Aussies on the bus yesterday...it was brilliant this and brilliant that...I love it). Tomorrow I head back to Antigua for a night before moving on to country #3, Honduras.

Click here for more photos or see the photo links at the left of the blog below the map.

Guatemala: Semuc Champey & Lanquin

Friday I left Flores on a shuttle bus to Lanquin/Semuc Champey. It was about 6 hours in the bus. It was a very beautiful drive. The mountains are so green and lovely. I sat up front with the driver which allowed me a better view of the scenery and an opportunity to practice my Spanish. At one point we came upon a little town along Rio de Pasion. The houses were flooded with water about half way up the walls. According to the driver, the river begins in the Gulf of Mexico and floods about four times per year. I asked him where the families stay when their houses are flooded and the answer was 'en la calle', in the street. This time the houses had been inundated with water for several weeks. I bought a 7-up from one of the houses/stores. I asked the price and was told 10 Quetzales...which is a total rip off at about $1.35. But it just didn't seem right to bargain down to 4 or 5 Quetzales when this woman's home is halfway under water. A flood premium of $0.75 is totally appropriate in my opinion.

The reason we had stopped at Rio de Pasion is that you have to cross the river by ferry; there is no bridge. So we waited about 20 minutes then crossed the river in about 3 minutes and were on our way.

Upon arriving to Lanquin, I checked into El Retiro hostel. The only thing left besides hammocks was a double room for Q80 ($11) so I took it for the night. It was a loft above the dorms in a little hut. There was no door, only a curtain; so I used my mosquito net for the night. The only problem was that it was a bit precarious climbing the ladder with my 40+ pound backpack.

Eating in the hostel was family style. There were probably 50+ people staying. The food was awesome and vegetarian friendly. I ended up handing out with a bunch of Brits and the following night we played cards and dice.

On Saturday I took a tour of Semuc Champey and the surrounding caves. The first thing we did upon arrival is jump into the river from a rope swing. Most of you know I'm afraid of heights. But I did the rope swing no problem. Actually, this would be a day of conquering some of my fears. I only have flip flops and running shoes with me. The Brits had told me if I don't mind getting my 'trainers' wet, I should wear them. So I did and was really glad because some people lost their flip flops in the river or in the caves even after tying them on with twine. The Lanquin Caves are filled with water. Each of us (about 18) were given a candle. I, along with the guide and probably 3 others, had headlamps. The cave experience was really cool. Think Indiana Jones. Part of the time we were wading through water, part of the time we were swimming with only our heads and one handing holding the candle above the water. At one point we had to blow out the candles and go underneath a waterfall. After which we climbed two ladders and got to a point where we could climb up about 8 feet and jump into a pool. Again...I pushed past my fears and jumped. It was a weird feeling jumping into the pool in the dark and then not hitting the bottom. It felt like I just kept going down and down.

Once out of the caves we went tubing on the river for about 20 minutes. The tubes were not like the large tubes we used to float the Weber River this summer...but tiny tubes that your rear end could barely fit in. So you were sort of top heavy until you folded your body up and shoved your butt down lower.

Next, on to Semuc Champey. On the walk there, there were several children selling things...oranges, chocolate, etc. The people in this mountain village speak their indigenous Mayan language of Q'eqchi' or Kekchi, not Spanish. I didn't have any money with me, but I had my cookies with me. They definitely knew the Spanish word for cookies, galletas, when I asked if they would like some cookies. So I gave my cookies to three little kids, and they were pretty happy about that. On the way, our guide also broke open a cacao seed (from which chocolate is made). The seeds inside are slimy and you can't eat them. But you can suck on them and eat the slimy stuff, which is pretty tasty.

Semuc Champey is a natural monument near the Q'eqchi' Maya town of Lanquin. It is a 300 meter natural limestone bridge. Under the bridge passes the Cahabon River. On top of the bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools. It was so beautiful. First we climbed a steep trail to the 'mirador' or lookout point where we had lunch (me PBJ). Then we climbed down and swam in the pools. The turquoise color comes from minerals in the limestone. For the most daring of the group (can you believe I fell into this category???) the guide set up a rope ladder at the end of the pools. We climbed down the rope ladder underneath the bridge and we could see where the river was powerfully gushing out. But...it wasn't just as easy as climbing down a rope ladder. The rope ladder was in a really strong waterfall. So, in addition to a strong waterfall falling on your head and face, the ladder was also right against the rock; so there wasn't a lot of room to put your feet on the rungs...only the width of the rung itself. So it was a bit scary. But I made it down (and obviously back up as well...it was more scary on the way up). It was incredible below. Under the limestone bridge on a rock and you can see this powerful river gushing out from the darkness of this bridge in 3 or 4 places. It's hard to explain in words, but it was incredible. One of the Israeli's(there are a lot of Israeli's in Guatemala right now as they are on University holiday in October) turned to me and said this is better than all the National Parks in the US. I started naming parks and he said, 'yes better' to each one I named. I got to Arches and he hadn't been. I would say Arches and Semuc Champey are in the same category. Anyway, it was amazing underneath there. It wasn't just what we were seeing, but also the experience of getting down. Never would you be able to do something like in a national park in the US. Once we were down there the guide told us that something like 9 people had died by falling into the river at the top of the bridge where the river starts to go underneath (we were at the end where the river comes out). But now they have a ranger at the top who keeps people from going to close to the edge. This is the first safety precaution (other than police in towns and armed guards at banks) that I have seen in Guate.

So I forgot to mention, but the drive from the hostel to Lanquin Caves and Semuc Champey was in a truck. I sat in the front along with 3 other women, but the rest of the group stood in the back of the truck. It's about a 10km ride on a bumping, winding, dirt road. On the way home after the adventures of the day, I felt much more couragous and decided to ride home in the back of the truck. It was actually really cool. You could see so much more from this vantage point. The moutains are so green and beautiful. There were tons of fireflies flickering in the distance. And it was just sort of...I don't know the adjetive...spiritual (but maybe less strong) riding in the back of the truck like that with 15 other strangers from different places who had shared adventures together during the day, helping each other in the caves. And riding back to camp the way the way the Q'eqchi' people do (if they are lucky enough to hitch a ride), although there would be 3 times the amount of people cramed in.

You'll see in the pictures there are corn fields high on the mountain hills. The people plant and harvest everything by hand. It's amazing really. The fields are so high on really steep hills. You see people (men, women and children) walking along the road with really heavy bags of harvested corn or bundles of firewood. The bag is on their backs and then it is supported by a rope that goes on top of their heads and their hands are sort of on their heads helping to balance and support the weight.

The second night at El Ritiro Hostel I was able to move to a single room for Q50 ($6.75). This time with a locking door and no ladder...just a few steps. It was really a cool place and had a great atmostphere. It felt more like camping. Some people just slept in hammocks.

It's hard to explain in words but the experience in Lanquin/Semuc Champey was overall, really incredible. Check out the rest of the photos here. Also, see the link on the left side of the page for photos of other places I've been so far. I arrived in Antigua on Sunday and will be leaving tomorrow or the next day for San Pedro/Lago Atitlan. I hope everyone is well. :) Ciao!

Guatemala: Flores and Tikal

I'm pretty much computered out today. In the 3rd internet cafe I found I could FINALLY upload my pictures (click here to check them out) there is also a link below to the left under photos. Although it took 1.5 hours! So I don't feel like writing much. The photos are of my time in Flores (and the surrounding barrios), my host family, the orphanage and Tikal.

This morning I 'checked out' of the home of my host family. They were wonderful, but I was ready for a night alone. So...not wanting to jump into the hostel scene yet, I splurged for a private room and bathroom with hot water...$8 per night.


I wrote about it in a blog below, but the highlight of my time in Flores was visiting the girls orphange. The girls are so lovely and are smiling and laughing all the time. They are very loving. And the nuns are great. If you are looking for a charity to give to and would like more information, please let me know.

Tomorrow I leave Flores on a bus at 9am headed for Samuc Champey. Hopefully I'll be able to upload photos better there because from the photos I've seen, it's amazing! I'll be there for a couple days before heading to Antigua.

Guatemala: Flores - Girl's Orphanage & Old Folks Home/Shelter

The manager of my Spanish school, Anne from Germany, visits a girls orphanage twice a week and a Old Folks Home/Shelter once a week. I went along with her this week to both.

The girls at the orphanage were incredible. They were so happy to see Anne and the rest of us. They came running and greeted us with hugs and kisses on the cheeks. Even the little tiny ones...las chiquitas wanted you to bend down and give you kisses on their cheeks. The orphanage is located at a convent and is ran by nuns. We visited on the 1st of October which is El Dia del Niño or Children's Day. We hosted games for the girls, the nuns had two piñatas full of candy and we sang with the girls. All of the girls are so beautiful and seem so happy. It definitely helped me with some needed perspective. It was an incredible experience and I'm going back again on Sunday.

Today I went to what I call an old folks home/shelter. It is a place where old people can go...who would alternatively be on the street. Some of the people there have families some don't. Some were found on the street. Some have relatively good health, others do not. I practiced Spanish with four gentleman. It was a good exercise in listening, understanding and speaking Spanish.

Again, I'm having technical difficulties posting pictures in this internet cafe, but will another one this weekend or later this week.

Tonight I'm going out in Flores for the first time since I arrived here. I'm going with Anne from the school. Tomorrow I think I will canoe to the other island...Flores is an island on Lake Peten Itza...see this link for some photos and a little info. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flores,_Guatemala

I miss everyone, A LOT (I just had to swallow a lump as I wrote that), but I think I'm starting to get my solo travel legs and am feeling more comfortable. I had a surreal experience walking home from school today through the beautiful cobblestone streets in Flores...it just felt really weird for a moment that I was meandering down the street in this tiny island town in the middle of northern Guatemala. I'm doing well. :)

Guatemala: Flores - Host Family

***I'M HAVING TECHNICALLY DIFFICULTIES LOADING MY PHOTOS HERE IN FLORES. I'LL TRY ANOTHER INTERNET CAFE NEXT WEEK. OTHERWISE...THEY MIGHT HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL THE NEXT TOWN WHICH WILL BE LATER NEXT WEEK.***

I arrived in Flores Guatemala on Wednesday afternoon. I was greeted at the airport by Anne, who is the German girl who runs the school (the teachers are native Guatemalans). They dropped me with my host family. My guate mom, Zoila, made me a dinner of: black beans (pureed), scrambled eggs, fried plantains and tortillas. They family didn´t eat with me...I guess they ate later. However, Zoila sat and talked with me (Spanish only) while I ate and later called her husband David in to talk. He was very excited to talk (Spanish only) about American things: sports, weather, politics...he even asked if I liked Obama or McCain. He keeps up on world news by watching CNN (in Spanish). He sits about 3 feet from the TV. I'm not sure if he just likes it that way or if he can't hear or see very well.

I wasn't feeling well after the flight, so I went to be early. My room is quite nice, much nicer than I expected. I had been informed that most homes in Guate are much different than those of the US and Western Europe that many consist of one room that are divided by plywood not going to the ceiling. However, this is a big 2 story house with a kitchen/diving, living room, bathroom with shower (no hot water) and what appears to be 4 bedrooms but I can't really confirm that without snooping. I have a large room with a balcony and a TV. The floor is tile, the walls are stucco. The floors in the living room and kitchen/diving are concrete. There is no sink in the kitchen, but it's in an open breezeway between their house and the one next door (which is the house of David´s parents). They also have a computer and internet in their home (2 kids in college and 1 in high school). Although I don´t use the computer...but bought 20 hours in an internet cafe for $7US.

The second day I come home from school at 1pm for lunch (3 meals/day are included in the home stay). Oscar the 15 year old son who only talks if I directly ask him a question shows me downstairs to lunch (the mother works). He gives me the plates, tortillas, lettuce and CHICKEN. I figure he either didn't get the vegetarian memo or maybe they think chicken is part of my diet...yikes. So I tortillas with lettuce for lunch. When I go upstairs I tell Oscar (Spanish only) thank you for the food. I didn't eat the chicken because I am vegetarian. He smiled.

I had a headache all day. I think because of the flying and the change in climate. I was sort of just feeling out of sorts yesterday and a little bit down. I wondered if I´d be eating only lettuce tortillas for the next week. However, when I got home at 6pm I went to the kitchen to find Doña Zoila and she was making tortillas. I asked if I could help. She showed me how to take the ball of dough and make it into the flat tortilla to cook. She can make them super quick. I on the other hand was very slow and could not produce a good-looking tortilla. But she fixed them for me. She asked about the 'soup and rice' and me not eating it for lunch. I told her that I didn´t see it. She said Oscar was supposed to show me the rice and the vegetable soup. :) Leave it to the 15 year shy boy to only show me the lettuce and chicken. She was worried that I didn´t like her cooking and I was worried that I was only going to eat lettuce. We had a good laugh. Dinner the 2nd night I had: Veggie soup, black beans (pureed), 1 fried egg, rice and tortillas. I'm definitely not going to loose weight this week.

I showed Zoila pictures of my nephews, my parents and a picture my friends and I mountain scootering at Snowbird (this was the only one I had to show the Utah mountains). We had a good conversation then I went to bed early because despite 2 tylenols in the morning, 4 Ibuprofen at lunch and 2 more tylenols at dinner...I still had a headache. But I am feeling much better today. And for lunch Zoila had made me spaghetti...which the night before I had told her it was my favorite food. Mothering is definetly international. She´s making sure I´m well feed and looked after.